Istanbul: a relaxed visit

We began in Sultanahmet because the main historic sights are close together. The Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, the Hippodrome, Topkapı Palace and Gülhane tram stop form the central visitor area. It becomes busy later in the morning, so we started early, before the square filled with tour groups. We visited the Blue Mosque. Entry is free, and it was the interior we found most worthwhile in this part of the city. It is an active mosque, so visitors need to dress appropriately, remove shoes and work around prayer times. The building has six minarets, a large domed prayer hall and the blue İznik tiles that gave it its popular name. We did not visit Hagia Sophia or Topkapı Palace inside. Hagia Sophia’s tourist upper-gallery route cost €25 for foreign visitors. The standard foreign-visitor ticket for Topkapı Palace, the Harem and Hagia Irene cost 2,750 Turkish lira, approximately €54 depending on the exchange rate. We considered both prices excessive for this trip. That did not mean we ignored the two buildings. Hagia Sophia is visible from the square opposite the Blue Mosque, and Topkapı Palace becomes particularly clear from a ferry. From the water, you see the palace on Seraglio Point, with Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque rising behind it. The Hippodrome is free and worth a short look. It was the ceremonial and racing ground of Byzantine Constantinople, and the Egyptian Obelisk and Serpent Column remain in the long open space. The Grand Bazaar is also free to enter. It is Ottoman rather than Byzantine, but it belongs naturally to a first visit because it shows Istanbul as a trading city as well as an imperial capital. We did not try to cover every street in the Grand Bazaar. That would take too long and becomes tiring once the corridors are busy. We preferred to look at the main spaces and then continue towards the tram rather than turn the market into a half-day expedition. We skipped Gülhane Park. From Gülhane tram stop, we took the T1 directly to Eminönü. For us, that was a sensible decision after Sultanahmet: the park is a good green alternative for visitors who want to walk down to Sirkeci, but we preferred to save energy for the waterfront and ferry.

Eminönü is one of the city’s major transport points. The New Mosque, Spice Bazaar, Galata Bridge, T1 tram and ferry piers are all close together, which makes the area useful but also crowded. We did not stay here for long; for us, it was the practical link between the historic centre, the Golden Horn and the water. The Spice Bazaar is free to enter and lies beside the New Mosque. It is smaller and easier to understand than the Grand Bazaar, with stalls selling tea, spices, lokum, dried fruit and sweets. We would visit early or use it as a short stop before a ferry, rather than go in the middle of the day when the narrow passages are busiest. Süleymaniye is another important free sight. The mosque, designed by Sinan for Sultan Süleyman I, stands high above the Golden Horn and gives a different view of Istanbul from the Blue Mosque. It is part of the UNESCO-listed Historic Areas of Istanbul and remains an active mosque. Visit outside prayer periods, particularly avoiding Friday midday. For Eyüp, we used the T5 tram along the Golden Horn. This was one of the most useful routes of our trip. T5 runs from Eminönü along the Golden Horn to Alibeyköy, with stops including Cibali, Fener, Balat, Ayvansaray and Eyüpsultan Teleferik. It avoids a long walk along the waterfront. Eyüp Sultan Mosque is an important pilgrimage site and has a different atmosphere from Sultanahmet. It is used by worshippers as well as visitors, and Friday and religious holidays can be particularly busy. We found the visit worthwhile because it shows another side of Ottoman Istanbul: more religious, more local and less centred on international tourism. Near the mosque, we took the cable car to Pierre Loti Hill. The cable car is short, but it saves a steep climb through the cemetery. The T5 has a station called Eyüpsultan Teleferik, which makes the transfer straightforward. At the top is the Pierre Loti tea garden. It is a known visitor spot and not especially quiet, but the view over the Golden Horn is excellent. We went for the view and a glass of tea, not for a long café visit. The return cable car was the practical choice after a full day.

The public ferries were among the best parts of our visit. They are not just transport: a normal crossing gives views of the historic peninsula, the Bosphorus, Galata and the Asian shore while also moving you to a different district. Our first crossing was from Eminönü to Kadıköy. The ferry passes the tip of Topkapı Palace and gives a clear view of Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. For us, it was the best way to see how the palace, mosques and old city sit above the water. In Kadıköy, we took the historic T3 tram for a loop through the district and towards Moda. It is a small detail rather than a major attraction, but we enjoyed the ride. The T3 runs in a circular route through Kadıköy and Moda and is an easy way to see a little more of the district without adding another long walk. Our second crossing went from Eminönü to Üsküdar. The ferry runs past Karaköy, with a good view of Galata Tower. From Üsküdar, we walked along the water and looked back at the European skyline. The historic peninsula, mosque domes, minarets, ferries and the Bosphorus all appear in one wide panorama. We returned by ferry to Kabataş. From there, we used the F1 funicular to Taksim. It is a useful connection because it avoids a steep climb from the waterfront. The ride is very short, but it saves time and energy. We did not find Taksim Square itself particularly interesting. It is a large, busy transport and traffic space. We then walked down İstiklal Caddesi. The historic red tram is pleasant to see, but the street is primarily a crowded shopping street rather than a place where we wanted to spend much time. Two stops are worth making. St Anthony of Padua is a Roman Catholic church run by Franciscans and offers a quiet interior on an otherwise busy street. The Dutch Consulate-General is also on İstiklal Caddesi, in the historic Palais de Hollande, reflecting the long Dutch presence in the city. At the lower end of İstiklal Caddesi, we took the F2 Tünel down to Karaköy. This is a short but very useful line. It avoids a steep descent, brings you close to Galata Bridge and the T1, and makes the return towards Eminönü, Sultanahmet or Vezneciler simple.

We used trams often because even with public transport you will walk a lot in Istanbul. The T1 line was particularly useful. It links Kabataş, Karaköy, Eminönü, Sirkeci, Gülhane, Sultanahmet, Beyazıt and the area around Vezneciler. It is one of the main lines through the historic centre and has frequent services. T1 can be extremely busy, especially around Eminönü, Sirkeci, Sultanahmet and Beyazıt. We sometimes saw trams so full that there was hardly room to enter. We did not force our way in. In several cases, another tram arrived shortly afterwards and was much quieter, sometimes almost empty. This is a simple but useful Istanbul rule: if the first tram is uncomfortably full, wait for the next one. The line runs frequently, including every few minutes in the busiest periods. Waiting briefly usually costs less time and energy than standing tightly packed in a hot tram. We did not try to avoid crowds only by starting early. We also paid attention to the direction in which we moved through the city. After Sultanahmet, we took the T1 to Eminönü; for Eyüp, we used the T5 along the Golden Horn; and for Kadıköy and Üsküdar, we took the ferry. In that way, we used Istanbul’s busiest areas as starting points rather than places where we stayed all day. Before travelling, check current departures and any disruptions, especially when you need a particular connection. Ferry schedules can also change by season and day, so check the current departures before you leave your hotel.

Mosque and Eyüp Sultan Mosque are free to enter, subject to prayer times and appropriate behaviour in active religious buildings. The exterior views of Hagia Sophia and Topkapı Palace are also free and particularly good from the ferry. Paid sites remain worthwhile when they are central to your interests. For us, however, the prices of Hagia Sophia and Topkapı Palace meant that we preferred to spend our time on the mosques, markets, ferries and free views.